Introduction

This web site is my personal recollection of an extremely enjoyable holiday walking the West Highland Way, including the journeys to and from Stirling. It is also an opportunity to share my photographs with my fellow walkers.

Since this was to be my first visit to Scotland, I was especially looking forward to it. To celebrate crossing the border, we opted to stop at the Annadale Water services for a coffee, and to try on a 'See You Jimmy' wig. Having managed to avoid buying the latter, we were exiting the complex, when a bearded man on crutches passed us. Nothing unusual in that, but he was wearing a navy dress, tights and what appeared to be a bra! Steve and I managed to carry on walking, but Cynthia and Margaret were rooted to the spot. We decided against following him to see which lavatory he went into, but he certainly gave us plenty to talk about over the next week.

We found our accommodation in Stirling - Anderson House in Melville Terrace - a couple of hours later. The rooms were comfortable and the garden was beautiful, but I was relieved to hand in the key the following morning. The wooden key ring was huge, and would only fit in the deepest pockets!

After a visit to Stirling Castle, we returned to the city centre and an excellent meal at Papa Joe's. Then it was back to the guest house and bed. Stirling was still bathed in sunlight at 9pm, so I went back up to the castle to take some photographs.

Day 1 - Milngavie to the Garadhban Forest (14 miles)

The first day's walking started well as we boarded the Lomond Walking Holidays' buses at Stirling station. Our fellow walkers were a lively bunch and the sun was shining. However, about a mile out of town the heavens opened, and we were treated to a downpour for the rest of the journey to the start of the walk at Milngavie on the outskirts of Glasgow.

At Milngavie station, whilst fighting our way into our waterproofs, we met the remaining walkers and our guide, Martin. Following the obligatory photo call next to the official start point in the shopping precinct, and a brief introduction to Cynthia's brother-in-law, Norrie, who had come to see her off, the party of 14 set off into the Mugdock Country Park and the first mile of the 95 mile West Highland Way.

After a couple of miles, we took the first of the day's breaks beside Craigallian loch, and Martin took the opportunity to try and remember our names. For the record they were Jill and Ivor, Celia and Keith, Brian, Belinda, Sarah, Ann and Michael. Then there were Margaret, Cynthia, Steve, and me, Clive, from the Ramblers' Association Andover Group. The sun was back out by this time, and the waterproofs came off. They stayed off for most of the rest of the walk.

Another mile and another stop. This time it was to hear Martin read a few passages from Sir Walter Scott's classic tale, Rob Roy. I have to admit to not understanding a word of it, but Martin's enthusiastic delivery was worthy of a round of applause. We also heard about the standing stones at Dumgoyach before turning onto a disused railway line and the last couple of miles walking before lunch at Dumgoyne. Time to fill up with bananas, chocolate and Scotland's favourite soft drink, Irn Bru.

Refreshed, we continued along the same path, before turning onto the road to Drymen. It wasn't long before we saw our first glimpse of Loch Lomond. Steve pointed out that one of the islands in the loch was actually a nudist colony. Although it was a warm day, there was always a threat of rain, so we declined to shed any clothing, just in case.

My water supply had run dry shortly after we turned off the railway line, so I was very relieved when the buses came into view in the Garadhban Forest car park, and I could get a drink. Then it was a short drive to Balmaha and our accommodation in the Oak Tree Inn.

Following the first of many excellent meals, during which I found out Ivor was a fellow Coeliac, it was nice to spend the rest of the evening in the company of Cynthia's sister Lynne, and brother-in-law Norrie.

Day 2 - The Garadhban Forest to Rowardennan (14 miles)

Another first for me today. This was to be the first time I would have walked seriously on consecutive days. The walk began where we left off yesterday, in the Garadhban Forest car park. The format was slightly different from today, in that we had to stock up with food and drink before we set off. The walk started with a gentle climb, but this was soon interrupted by the 500 foot ascent of Conic Hill. The views of Loch Lomond and the surrounding mountains were superb, and made the climb worthwhile. The descent was even more spectacular as both Belinda and I took tumbles. Luckily I landed on something soft ... a patch of thistles.

Lunch was by the marina in Balmaha, just a stone's throw from our lodgings. We were soon rounded up and heading to the first of what Martin described as "wee hills". It was on the top of Craigie Fort that we had our second reading from Rob Roy, and I learned the gaelic word for an old woman, cailleach.

The path along the shore of Loch Lomond took us along a variety of surfaces including some walking along the only road on the eastern side of the loch. Following my earlier fall, I was beginning to think that things were conspiring against me after I left my trekking pole at Cashell following a short break. Luckily it was still where I'd left it when I doubled back to retrieve it.

The afternoon break was taken on top of another "wee hill" with fine views across the loch. Unfortunately the midges were lying in wait for us, and they were hungry.

Once again we descended to the loch shore, before ascending Martin's last and highest "wee hill" of the day at Ross Wood. The descent into Rowardennen was led by Margaret. Unbelievably we didn't get lost, nor did we end up going down any dead ends. Not bad for someone with no sense of direction.

After dropping the hostellers off at the Rowardennan Hotel, it was back to Balmaha, and our accommodation at the Bay Cottage guest house. The evening meal was once again at the Oak Tree Inn. The conversation tonight drifted between blisters and football. Celia was suffering with her feet, whilst Brian was in mourning for his beloved Celtic who had failed to win the Scottish Premier League by just one goal to arch-rivals Rangers.

By the time I collapsed into the most comfortable bed of the holiday, I knew I had overcome any doubts I'd had about walking for two or more days.

Day 3 - Rowardennan to Inverarnan (14 miles)

The third day's walking began at the Rowardennan Youth Hostel with a steady climb on good track through forest. For the first time it became apparent just how many people were walking the West Highland Way this week. Despite us staying in different accommodation and having different schedules, we continued to pass, or be passed by familiar faces all week.

Belinda and Sarah were unusually quiet, after having drunk what sounded like an endless amount of Whiskey Macs the previous evening, courtesy of their host John. Ann was the first casualty of the day, tripping on a stone as the path descended back to the loch shore. From here to the lunchtime stop at the Inversnaid Hotel, the path narrowed and became more rocky. But this was nothing compared to what was waiting for us in the afternoon stretch.

The three miles directly after the Inversnaid Hotel are widely regarded as some of the most difficult of the entire West Highland Way. It certainly required a lot of concentration in order to avoid tripping on the rocks, streams and tree roots.

The walk was interrupted by a stop at Rob Roy's Cave, where Martin gave us another recitation. The entertainment, though, came from watching others negotiating the steep rocky path down to the cave, especially the cyclist.

The path continued for what seemed like an eternity, before we climbed a ladder and slowly made our way down to a shingly beach and the afternoon stop.

The path now became a little easier to walk on, and it wasn't long before we arrived at the Doune bothy, a stone built building with no facilities, but which can provide walkers with somewhere dry to sleep. From here the walk took us up and over Cnap Mor, where we took our last glimpse of Loch Lomond, before descending slowly in Inverarnan and the Drover's Inn.

Nothing could have prepared me for the Drover's Inn. The place looked like a badly looked after prison from the outside. Inside it was full to the rafters with stuffed animals, birds and fish, including a moth-eaten bear, a two-headed lamb and ferret being crushed by a snake. For all that, it was doing a roaring trade, and is somewhere I would like to visit again.

Today's walk was beginning to take it's toll on some of our party. Celia's blisters were multiplying and Jill was also struggling, after having fallen earlier.

Luckily for some of us, the highlight of the day was still to come. The evening meal at our guesthouse for the next two nights, Ewich House, at Crianlarich. Our host, Liz, served us a lovely roast followed by a pavlova to die for.

Day 4 - Inverarnan to Tyndrum (14 miles)

The day which was to take us to the half way point of the walk started sluggishly. This was due to an over indulgence at the breakfast table as well as stiff legs which had yet to loosen up. Given the extra weight I was carrying, it wasn't surprising, when given a peat bog to cross, I sank rather deeply before being pulled out by Martin.

Following yesterday's fall, Jill had decided that she had had enough, giving Ivor the opportunity to walk with the faster walkers.

After four miles, following the River Falloch, we made it onto the old military road which we were going to be following for most of the rest of the walk. Lunch was at the official mid-way point, overlooking Crianlarich. This was one of my favourite moments. The view was excellent and the group were in good spirits. Pity the same could not be said of their feet.

We continued on a seemingly endless undulating track though the forest above Strathfillan, eventually stopping beneath a railway viaduct for the afternoon break. We arrived just in time to see the train from Oban pass overhead.

The path was, by now, level with the A82 trunk road between Crianlarich and Tyndrum, which was to be our destination for the day. Before we reached it, the path took us past the remains of St Fillan's church. Martin gave a brief account of St Fillan's life, but most of us were distracted by the farmer and his dog rounding up sheep in the adjoining field.

After a brief stop at a statue, or to be more precise a block of bricks cemented together with lead, we entered Tyndrum, and our first opportunity to do a spot of shopping, at the Green Welly Stop.

It was now decision time. In order to reduce the amount of walking on day five, to a mere 16 miles, we were urged to continue walking for another hour. Despite being tired, it was good idea, and one we would not regret.

Then it was back to the Ewich House, where Liz had excelled herself once again with another culinary delight. This time it was her mashed potato. Superb. I just wish I'd taken a photo of it when it was served up!

Day 5 - Tyndrum to Blackrock Cottage (16 miles)

With the memories of yesterday's evening meal still fresh in my mind, and my legs sprayed with Deep Heat, I felt good about today's walk. It was made even better when I discovered that the early miles were either level walking or downhill. We were also able to welcome Jill back for this section.

At Bridge of Orchy we stopped at the hotel for a cup of coffee, before beginning the climb up the old military road through the pine forest to the cairn at the top of Mam Carraigh. Ahead of us was Loch Tulla and beyond that the vast wilderness of Rannoch Moor. More importantly, at the bottom of the hill, lying in wait for us was the Inveroran Hotel, which was to be our lunch stop for today.

Suitably refreshed after a pot of tea, we began the steady climb onto Rannoch Moor. At the afternoon break, in the rain, Martin duly obliged with a passage from Robert Louis Stevenson's classic, Kidnapped. The shower soon passed, the sky brightened, and we could finally take in the beauty of the landscape that stretched out for miles to our right. In an effort to capture it on film, I lost sight of all but two of the many walkers who were crossing the moor.

My lasting impression of Rannoch Moor was the similarity of it's landscape to that at Thingvellir in southwest Iceland. For me Rannoch Moor was the highlight of the walk, and was well worth hanging back for.

Aware that I had lost sight of our group, I pushed on, and after about an hour, caught up with Ivor and Michael. Ivor, too, was fascinated by the landscape, particularly the lack of houses.

I think I heard Celia and Keith before I could see them. To take their mind off their sore feet, they sang as they walked. If it works for them, I might give it a go myself next time.

I was almost disappointed when the buses came into view. Although today had been the longest in terms of mileage, the views, the civilised breaks and the easy walking surface had made it a day to remember. That and the sight of an exhausted Cynthia collapsing in a heap as she tried to stand up to board the bus.

Then it was off to the guesthouse that was to provide us with a bed for the next three nights, Scorrybreac in Glencoe village. The journey also provided us with an unexpected bonus, in the form of a view of the set for the third Harry Potter film, Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban. Over the next couple of nights we were able to see it at even closer quarters.

Emma and Graham were our hosts, and provided most of us with a delicious meal of duck. As with the meals at the previous guesthouse in Crianlarich, our hosts went to considerable lengths to cater for the vegetarians and coeliacs in our small group. Even the talk of sore feet and blisters could not put me off my food tonight.

Day 6 - Blackrock Cottage to Kinlochleven (9 miles)

I had not been looking forward to today. I had anticipated that with this being the shortest distance, it would most likely be the toughest leg to negotiate. I had also made the mistake of reading up on today's stage before going to bed last night.

The walk started well. It was fairly level walk for the most part on a good surface. The only major problem was avoiding getting run over by the fast moving traffic on the A82 shortly before the first break of the day.

It was here that we began to climb out of Glencoe. An ascent of 250 metres, with the last part following the Devil's Staircase, an aptly named zig-zag path. The top of the mountain kept disappearing from view as the weather closed in, making it seem further away than ever. Eventually the two cairns that marked the summit came into view, hidden by the members of the group who had decided to make this an unofficial stop.

The rest of the day's walking was essentially a long, slow descent into Kinlochleven. Like day three, the walk was tiring as we again had to concentrate on where we were putting our feet. For me, at least, this takes the pleasure out of walking. With the weather still overcast, there was still a need to wear a waterproof jacket.

The sight of the penstock above Kinlochleven gave me some hope that the walk would soon be over. In reality, it merely marked the start of the steep woodland track. At least it was a better surface to walk on. The rest of the group were by now a long way ahead, and were enjoying lunch at the foot of a dam by the time I had caught up with them.

Once in Kinlochleven, Martin had instructed us to head for the Tailrace Inn, where the buses would be picking us up. With Martin, Keith, Celia, and her blisters still about 30 minutes behind us, we were able to seek refreshment before returning to the guesthouse.

Once again the highlight of the day for me was the evening meal. One of my favourites, chicken in a lemon sauce.

Day 7 - Kinlochleven to Fort William (14 miles)

I did it again. Before crashing out the previous evening I read some more from the guidebook. Having foolishly thought the climbing was over and done with, I was horrified to read that the path out of Kinlochleven climbs "almost exactly the same height as the path up the Devil's Staircase ... and this route is, if anything, rather harder going".

At least the weather was an improvement on yesterday, with the sun always threatening to put in an appearance. The aforementioned climb was rewarded with an undulating walk through a pretty glen beneath the Mamore Hills.

The first break of the day, taken in the ruins of a farmhouse at Tigh-na-sleubhaich, was brief. Cynthia had the sniff of shops in her nostrils, and was keen to maximise her shopping time in Fort William.

Martin advised us to continue without him, so he could make sure Celia and Keith were OK. We took lunch above the River Kiachnish, where we were met by Jill, who would be joining us for the final half a dozen miles of the walk. It was here that we were treated to a sight that the men on the walk would remember for a long time - Cynthia adjusting her knee supports. Nora Batty eat your heart out! Oddly, Steve didn't mind us watching her.

Shortly after lunch, we got our first view of Ben Nevis. Or at least those of us who were paying attention saw it, Margaret! We also heard our first clap of thunder of the week, soon to be followed by the inevitable downpour. But we didn't care. It just seemed to make the final few miles even more special.

After the final break, next to Ben Nevis, it was quite literally downhill all the way to Fort William. Belinda, Sarah, Ann and Brian led us home, with Margaret, Cynthia, Steve and I passing the finish post shortly afterwards at about a quarter to four. Michael was a few minutes behind us. After some champagne and more photos it was time to hit the souvenir shop and restaurant, where we awaited the arrival of Jill, Ivor, Celia, Keith and Martin.

An hour later, everyone had made it, and it was smiles all round. Time to turn our thoughts to the evening meal, and the first time on the holiday that we would all be eating together.

After a quick shower, it was off to the Clachaig Inn, which turned out to be smack in the middle of the Harry Potter film set.

And finally ...

It was a happy yet subdued group that made it's way back in the minibuses to Stirling station. Happy because we had completed the walk. Subdued because it was the end of an excellent holiday, and we would soon be saying our goodbyes and going our separate ways.

Celia was no doubt looking forward to putting her feet up, while Brian was presumably trying to think up a response to the inevitable question from his wife when he got home, "What have you been up to for the last seven days, there's no mud on your clothes?"

For the Ramblers' Association Andover Group members it was the first stage of a long road journey. With Cynthia feeling poorly, the quicker we got her home the better. Luckily it was a Saturday afternoon, and even with the extra traffic heading into Glasgow for the Scottish Cup Final, it took less than 6 hours driving time to reach Chippenham.

That's your lot. I hope it read as good as it was meant to, and that anyone considering walking the West Highland Way will not be put off from doing so.

Thanks go to Martin, our guide, for helping us get the most from the West Highland Way.

Thanks too, to Lomond Walking Holidays, particularly Paul and John. Their service and local knowledge was first class.

We must also thank the proprietors of the guesthouses where we ate and slept, all of which we rated very highly.

If you want to know more about the West Highland Way, please visit the official web site.